14 Dec This is how I made a waterbed frame from IKEA KALLAX
This waterbed frame hack is very similar to the” A full-sized bottom improved from KALLAX shelves+ a DIY headboard“, but was build to brace a full-sized waterbed.
This construction must be much more stable to support nearly 400 kg, but on the other hand, does not require a ventilation for the mattress.
For self-evident reasonableness, I decided to use the KALLAX shelves. They have a comfy summit for coming in and out of bunk and can be easily blended due to the variety of modules.
Watch a video of the waterbed make hacker
Material register for the waterbed enclose: IKEA 4 KALLAX shelves 2 x 1( 77 x 42 cm) 1 KALLAX shelves 4 x 1( 147 x 42 cm)
Non-IKEA
4 wooden board( 42 x 39 cm) 2 medium-density fibreboard( MDF)( 200 x 75 cm) 1 familiarized strand timber( OSB )( 20 mm)( 158 x 69 cm) 8 planed timber( 50 x50mm)( 35 cm) 4 planed timber( 5x5cm)( 69 cm) Impact sound insularity( 3,5 m2) Laminate( 3,5 m2) Aluminum equal tilt profile( 5,5 m) Contribute stripe( 5 m) Steel fortifies
How I originated the KALLAX waterbed frame
This is the first sketch I did when I had the idea for this waterbed chassis. It did not include the four wooden boards to substantiate its weight.
Related: See more IKEA hacks for bedrooms
But, I was not sure if the KALLAX shelves where strong enough to carry a waterbed. So I located four wooden boards between the shelves.
I consumed some L-brackets and steel bracings to connect the shelves
To support the prime load, I squandered eight legs, that held up an Oriented Strand Board, that exactly fitted between the shelves
The waterbed basi was finished. Time to do something for the optics. I bought two MDF committees that when combined were a little bit greater than the base.
The reason, I had bought two committees and not one was a single committee 150 x200 cm would not fit into my car.
I was not sure if I would need it, as no one ever would step on the laminate councils. But I had enough impact sound separation left open from the last transition so I had it positioned for the purposes of the laminate boards.
The laminate did not have to be laid moving and so I shafted it on to the MDF board.
I determined the aluminum sketch, mitered and glued it with red-hot cement on to the MDF board.
The aluminum profile is 4 x 4 cm, which left enough room, to affix an adhesive-backed LED piece on the inner horizontal surface of the profile.
Well, I made this is it and the work is done…
…but after looking at the bottom for a while I pondered a headboard was missing. Not much. Just a locate to drop a book or smartphone or something like that
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Material listing for the waterbed headboard: IKEA 2 MOSSLANDA picture ledge( 115 cm) 1 MOSSLANDA picture ledge( 55 cm)
Non-IKEA
1 lily-white chipboard 100 x 150 cm iron on edge party 1 quarter round strip wood moulding( 150 cm)
I cut a short MOSSLANDA picture ledge in half and fastened the four steps on the chipboard. The lower step was on the same height as the berth and the upper ledge at a stature so that a journal or tablet has not been able to inadvertently drop over the edge.
Since the chipboard was trimmed to the correct size, I had to iron on the banding.
The headboard was just targeted between the wall and the couch and not fixed to either of it. The final step was to glue the quarter round strip moulding to the bed.
I did not do any calculation of how much heavines this bed might carry, but I can tell you that it is now supporting my 140 x200 cm waterbed for more than a year.
And here’s how the waterbed frame gazes complete with waterbed mattress.
~ by Christoph Bock
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